Yemen’s last resort:

Yemen’s last resort: the conservation of her cultural heritage

Less endowed countries must market themselves. Several Arab Gulf-states have abundant oil and China has electronics and textiles. Yemen is in the Gulf but does not have abundant oil nor a substantial industrial base producing inexpensive consumer goods. Still, the country’s nickname, Arabia Felix, elicits the expectation of a society having great potential for productivity. This is the impression given by tourism and heritage conservation expert and longtime Sana’a resident Marco Livadiotti. “It is telling,” he says, “that the average tourist coming to Yemen stays for an average of 10 to 12 days. Multiply these numbers by the amount of tourists that visit the cities of Cairo and Rome every year and the consequences for economic development in Yemen are unbelievable. A tourist in Yemen is not looking for the night clubs and shopping malls of Dubai; anyway, he would not find them. Rather he is a cultural tourist seeking to find a living past reflected not only in museum pieces and great architecture but also, in the proud attitude of the people.”

Yemen is a predominantly Islamic state, yet Yemenis also have a rare sense of pride in their pre-Islamic history. Just as the Egyptians claim descent from the pharaohs of ancient Egypt, Yemenis proudly regard the Queen of Sheba as a common mother. However, unlike Egypt, Yemen has not yet managed to convert this pride and history into a marketable and sustainable national product. Furthermore, tourists continue to avoid the country due to its turbulent political situation and weak infrastructure. At this time when the country is most distracted with issues of civil war, a decreasing oil supply, water crisis, and high poverty and infant mortality rates, it is also in most urgent need of preserving and promoting its valuable history and cultural heritage. Iris Gerlach, director of the German Archaeological Society (GAS), makes the point that development in cultural preservation in Yemen could potentially stabilize the country, providing people with a common interest and objective. Gerlach was approached by the Social Fund for Development in Yemen (SFD) some years ago to help design a management plan for a museum in Marib where GAS does most of its research. However, due to the most recent tribal politics destabilizing the area these plans have been stalled. “Despite the problems, I think we should go ahead and build the museum there. There may only be national visitors at first but I believe this will slowly increase tourism in the region allowing it to open further to the global community,” says Gerlach.

The benefits of marketing Yemen’s cultural heritage to the outside world are not just economic. Rather, social and educational development is also possible and necessary for the preservation of the heritage. Consider the Miracle Children of Manakha and al-Hajjara whose multi-lingualism and mental database for historical fact is unheard for such an isolated region. Then, imagine if more resources were invested in the higher education of these children providing them with the necessary skills required to later excavate, restore and exhibit their community’s antiquities. Such education would create a country of scholars and craftsmen whose knowledge and skills would cross a wide range of disciplines.

“We need a school in Yemen that will train the masters in ancient techniques,” says Livadiotti. “Those few left that know how to make traditional building materials [such as joss, a traditional plaster] have no support. This art is endangered as we clearly see in the Old City of Sana’a.” Livadiotti explains that over the last several years about 40 percent of the city’s original character has been lost to poor restoration. “There are houses being demolished all over the city and those that remain standing are being severely altered in appearance by use of modern techniques incompatible with the original architecture. There is a loss of know-how and a general negligence on the part of the government as well as international and local organizations in restoring these buildings. If we wait too long there will be nothing left of the old city.”

Furthermore, explains Livadiotti, the Old City should not be seen as a self-sufficient and isolated project. “Restoration in any part of Yemen should be considered part of a greater plan for development. Unfortunately, the country is lacking in such a plan. Organizations such as UNESCO, SFD and various foreign teams do good work and promote good projects throughout the country but these projects lack a common goal.”

It is true that every region seems to have its own actors. The Germans are responsible for the restoration of the Sirwah temple in Marib, the Canadians for the castle of Zabid, the French and Yemenis began restoring the small Asnaf mosque close to Sana’a three years ago and the Italians via UNESCO are in charge of overseeing the conservation plan proposal for the Old City. Livadiotti is the only private contractor working on conservation projects in Yemen and restored the only heritage tourism hotel in the country, the mud-brick Al Howta Palace hotel in Seiyun, Hadhramaut. While there is good camaraderie between the various actors, each group generally works according to individually constructed plans. This lack of a general direction is further complicated by issues such as the looting of objects from unprotected sites, tribal politics and urban development which has led to hasty and poor restoration of many of the still-existing ancient structures.

In addition to a national conservation plan, Yemen needs a national system for sharing cultural and historical information. Dr. Abdullah Bowazir, president of the General Organization of Antiquities and Museums (GOAM), explains that more emphasis must be placed on a national database that would link all the museums in the country and record the objects brought to them. “A comprehensive documentation of objects found at the sites and in the museums would allow us to keep better track of the national heritage and defend it from such problems as stealing. Also it would be easier for scholars and others interested in the finds to access and study them. We are currently working on a project with the Social Fund to link all the museums to one main office. Such organization will greatly improve restoration efforts.”

Bowazir projects that the preservation and marketing of the national heritage will greatly change the livelihood of the Yemeni people. “A lot of people will get a chance to work if we can develop our restoration programs. This money will help them to improve their quality of life, especially in the more remote desert areas such as Marib. Work in excavations will provide Bedouin people, for example, with a new experience in life and will also help them to gain knowledge of their history. We want people to feel proud of the dynasty of their forefathers.” Dr. Bowazir stresses the need for a unified effort between the other Arab states and Yemen. “Yemen does not share in the oil of Saudi Arabia or Kuwait but we do share a common Arab heritage. It is a shame that most of our cooperation on restoration projects comes from countries outside the Arab world. Our history is one, our culture is one and our traditions are one. Yemen needs the help of its brothers in the fields of restoration and documentation. The history of all Arabs starts with Yemen and we must give attention to our cultural heritage.”