Cycling in Sana’a: Sensible or Suicidal?

Gnarls Barkley sings, “You must be cra-a-a-zy!” a sentiment that some of my friends....

Gnarls Barkley sings, “You must be cra-a-a-zy!” a sentiment that some of my friends and I regularly hear when we mention that we routinely cycle Sana’a’s streets. Maybe we are crazy, but just think about it - what would life be like if bicycles outnumbered cars? People would generally be happier, healthier, calmer, and wealthier. We’d all be getting more exercise, breathing cleaner air on quieter streets, while supporting less consumptive lifestyles; more endorphins, greater vigor, less stress, and fewer expenses. We’d all be having more fun, too, and who couldn’t use a bit more fun?

True, Sana’a is not the most bicycle-friendly city in the world, but pedaling these streets is not as suicidal as it may at first seem. Why then do so many people perceive cycling as a rather severe form of insanity? Contrary to first impressions, Sana’a’s roads are governed by a well-defined if somewhat unorthodox set of rules. In other words, the roads appear more dangerous than they actually are. Since our life expectancy depends on understanding the playing field, we cyclists have learned that “might makes right” and we don’t push our luck, though most motorists will yield with a smile when we make eye contact and signal schwaya schwaya (slowly slowly).

Sana’a drivers don’t often look back but are generally aware of whatever is immediately in front of them, so we ride fast and as close to the curb as we comfortably can; this gives drivers more planning time and space. In more than 12 years and 30,000 miles of cycling on Sana’a’s streets I’ve never been hit, and I intend to keep it that way. Therefore, I view certain vehicles with extra vigilance; let’s face it, some drivers do have issues. Whether you’re walking, driving a car, or riding a bicycle, watch out for the water trucks, unlicensed habbahs, dhababs, and metered taxis!

What should drivers do when they approach a cyclist? If he’s an old geezer with grey hair poking out from under his helmet, don’t honk! He has survived long enough to know that he shares the road with thousands of cars and he’s not going to spontaneously swerve out in front of you. On the other hand, if it’s a three-wheeler and the rider isn’t wearing a helmet, be extra cautious; some cyclists have issues, too! Give all cycles a wide berth. If you miss us, we are relieved. If you miss by a meter or more we are comfortable.

Although the danger of being hit by a car may be minimal, cyclists do have to deal with other hazards. Probably chief among these is exercising in air that is sullied by thousands of poorly tuned vehicles burning leaded fuel. Just go to ‘Asr on any morning and watch the sun rise. Sana’a lies in a basin that traps emissions and turns Sam’s city into a mini-Los Angeles. The next biggest hazard is probably the condition of the road; Sana’a may be the only capital city in the world that integrates potholes into new road construction. If you do decide to cycle, invest in some hefty tires. The streets are strewn with shards of glass and slivers of wire, and though these are not dangerous, they lead to punctures, and fixing flats does get rather tedious.

Most of my cycling pals prefer pedaling in the early morning or after Friday prayers when the roads are quiet. There is no doubt that cycling on an empty road is more enjoyable than battling traffic on a busy thoroughfare, but we commuters have no choice. On the other hand, commuting by bicycle often takes less time than the same journey by car since we are less hindered by the chronic traffic jams that choke this city’s streets and finding a place to park never poses a problem.

For the pleasure cyclist, there are some very enjoyable rides in the city including the sailah, which meanders past some of Sana’a’s most beautiful architecture. The road from Haddah to Sabahah involves a steep two mile climb followed by a long, speedy descent. The 50 meter road from ‘Asr to Shamlan is another of the many scenic and pleasant routes inside city limits.

There are numerous longer rides outside Sana’a’s checkpoints. Much of the scenery on the 50+ km loop from Sabahah to Bait Na’am and back via Shamlan can only be described as pastoral. The 100+ km round-trip to Kawkaban gets positively dramatic as do all the longer rides in virtually any direction. I have friends who have ridden from Sana’a to Hodeidah, Dhamar, Hamam Jaref, and from Al Hawf to the Omani border and back to Al Ghaidah, so don’t be shy while planning your route.

Maybe I am “cra-a-a-zy,” but that’s ok because I take guidance from Mark Twain who said, “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it’s time to pause and reflect.” I suppose that if everyone else actually did take up cycling I’d be forced to go out and buy a car.

The author is executive director of the Foundation for the Protection of the Arabian Leopard in Yemen, and Adviser to the Minister for Water and the Environment on the Conservation of the Arabian Leopard

P.O. Box 7069
Sana’a
Mobile: 733916928
Fax: 370193
ylrp@yemenileopard.org